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About tartan variations

  • Ancient
  • Modern
  • Weathered
  • Hunting
  • Dress

Ancient Tartan

Before 1860 fabrics were coloured using animal and vegetable dyes. This produced the softer colours typical of the Ancient tartans, mossy greens and sky blues, a more orangey red and some would say showing off the pattern to much greater effect as as the contrasts are much brighter than the Modern tartans. The pattern or sett remains the same across all variations of a single tartan, and only the shades or tones vary.

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Post 1860 chemical dyes replaced the natural animal and vegetable dyes and the Modern Tartans were born with their stronger and bolder colours. The soft greens and blues become bottle green and navy blue, reds are scarlet.

Modern Tartan

Before 1860 fabrics were coloured using animal and vegetable dyes. This produced the softer colours typical of the Ancient tartans. Post 1860 chemical dyes replaced the natural animal and vegetable dyes and the Modern Tartans were born with their stronger and bolder colours. The soft greens and blues become bottle green and navy blue, reds are scarlet.

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The Modern tartans are often the more subtle combinations such as the classic Black Watch Modern

Weathered Tartan

Before 1860 fabrics were coloured using animal and vegetable dyes. This produced the softer, more earthy colours typical of the Weathered tartans, reminiscent of bolder colours subjected to wind, rain and sunshine producing beautiful faded tones, olive greens and browns, and very light blues with reds that are more pink than red.

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Some mills refer to the Weathered tartans as Muted.

Hunting Tartan

The Hunting Tartans are the camouflage tartans and some clans don't have these variations because they are already predominantly green or brown and don't need amendment to blend in with nature's colours. The Black Watch or Gunn tartans are examples of these, whereas a tartan such as the Fraser is predominantly red and would not provide much cover for men out hunting.

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One thing to remember if you are ordering your tartan to match an existing kilt or accessory is that although the sett and colours are the same, there can be a slight difference in colour from one mill to the next. This is purely down to yarn dying so if you need an exact match we suggest you order a swatch to double check.

Dress Tartan

The Dress Tartans were designed as the name suggests for celebrations and highland dance. The sett or pattern of the tartan remains the same and the main colour is changed to white, or extra white is added to the pattern to give it a brighter, more "fancy" appearance. The Scots do like to bend the rules and occasionally instead of white thread, yellow is used and this is where the rather wild MacLeod Dress Modern and Barclay Dress Modern came from.

Helpful Advice

One thing to remember if you are ordering your tartan to match an existing kilt or accessory is that although the sett and colours are the same, there can be a slight difference in colour from one mill to the next. This is purely down to yarn dying so if you need an exact match we suggest you order a swatch to double check.

US Military

From the start

Military Tartans Tartan Origins & History

RCAF Tartan Swatch

Royal Canadian Air Force

It’s said that Canada were the first Air Force to adopt its own tartan. Considered a unique national treasure, its creation was sparked in the early 1940s by Group Captain E.G. Fullerton AFC, Commanding Officer of No. 9 Service Flying Training School. In July 1942 the tartan was submitted to Lord Lyon, King of Arms in Edinburgh for approval. In reality he had no power to approve or disapprove so instead he merely 'noted' its existence although it's frequently and erroneously claimed that he granted approval on 15 August 1942. Regardless of the legal niceties, it became officially known world-wide as The Royal Canadian Air Force Tartan.

US Army

The colours of the US Army tartan were chosen to represent the different uniforms worn. Black for the beret, khaki for the current summer uniform, light green for the original sniper uniform which is also now part of the summer uniform. Dark blue for the original dress uniform, olive for the combat uniform and gold for the cavalry.

US Navy Tartan

The US Navy in Scotland

The US Navy (Edzell) Tartan was designed by Arthur Mackie for USN personnel based at Edzell radar base in Angus, Scotland.

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