The US Navy Tartan was designed by Arthur Mackie and is also known as the Edzell Tartan. The design was created to acknowledge the relationship between the United States military personnel based at RAF Edzell in Angus, Scotland, and the surrounding civilian community. The concept for the tartan originated with Mackie, who went on to develop it into a finished design.
Each tartan can have multiple variations, the most common of which are Ancient, Modern, Weathered, Hunting and Dress
About tartan variations
Before 1860 fabrics were coloured using animal and vegetable dyes. This produced the softer colours typical of the Ancient tartans, mossy greens and sky blues, a more orangey red and some would say showing off the pattern to much greater effect as as the contrasts are much brighter than the Modern tartans. The pattern or sett remains the same across all variations of a single tartan, and only the shades or tones vary.
Post 1860 chemical dyes replaced the natural animal and vegetable dyes and the Modern Tartans were born with their stronger and bolder colours. The soft greens and blues become bottle green and navy blue, reds are scarlet.
Before 1860 fabrics were coloured using animal and vegetable dyes. This produced the softer colours typical of the Ancient tartans. Post 1860 chemical dyes replaced the natural animal and vegetable dyes and the Modern Tartans were born with their stronger and bolder colours. The soft greens and blues become bottle green and navy blue, reds are scarlet.
The Modern tartans are often the more subtle combinations such as the classic Black Watch Modern
Before 1860 fabrics were coloured using animal and vegetable dyes. This produced the softer, more earthy colours typical of the Weathered tartans, reminiscent of bolder colours subjected to wind, rain and sunshine producing beautiful faded tones, olive greens and browns, and very light blues with reds that are more pink than red.
Some mills refer to the Weathered tartans as Muted.
The Hunting Tartans are the camouflage tartans and some clans don't have these variations because they are already predominantly green or brown and don't need amendment to blend in with nature's colours. The Black Watch or Gunn tartans are examples of these, whereas a tartan such as the Fraser is predominantly red and would not provide much cover for men out hunting.
One thing to remember if you are ordering your tartan to match an existing kilt or accessory is that although the sett and colours are the same, there can be a slight difference in colour from one mill to the next. This is purely down to yarn dying so if you need an exact match we suggest you order a swatch to double check.
The Dress Tartans were designed as the name suggests for celebrations and highland dance. The sett or pattern of the tartan remains the same and the main colour is changed to white, or extra white is added to the pattern to give it a brighter, more "fancy" appearance. The Scots do like to bend the rules and occasionally instead of white thread, yellow is used and this is where the rather wild MacLeod Dress Modern and Barclay Dress Modern came from.
One thing to remember if you are ordering your tartan to match an existing kilt or accessory is that although the sett and colours are the same, there can be a slight difference in colour from one mill to the next. This is purely down to yarn dying so if you need an exact match we suggest you order a swatch to double check.
The US Navy Tartan was designed by Arthur Mackie. Often referred to as the Edzell Tartan, the design was created to recognise the close relationship between United States military personnel stationed at RAF Edzell in Angus and the surrounding local civilian community. The concept inspired by the shared experiences and cooperation between service members and residents during the base’s years of operation.
The colours within the tartan were carefully chosen to reflect collaboration across the armed services. Dark blue represents the US Navy, light blue symbolises the US Air Force, while red acknowledges both the US Marine Corps and the US Army. White threads run through the design to represent the waves of the ocean, reinforcing the naval connection and the maritime setting central to the tartan’s identity.
First produced in 1985, the US Navy Tartan is registered with the Scottish Register of Tartans. While it is not formally recognised by the United States Department of the Navy as an official tartan, it has become a meaningful and widely worn symbol for those with naval service and military connections, particularly those linked to Edzell and its shared Scottish American history.
If you find yourself near Brechin in Angus, a visit to the village of Edzell is well worth the short journey. Today a peaceful and welcoming village, Edzell was known as Slateford until 1818, when it took its current name. It is perhaps best known for the Dalhousie Arch, a striking historic gateway that once formed the entrance to Edzell Castle and remains one of the area’s most recognisable landmarks. Edzell is surrounded by beautiful countryside and sits on the edge of the Angus Glens, making it an ideal base for walkers and outdoor enthusiasts.
Image Credit: John Aldersey-William