Kilt Pleating To Sett or To Stripe
Today's blog comes from Emma, a multi-tasker who flits from the dispatch department to customer service depending where we need her most.
Being the newest member of the team my knowledge of the business and our lovely products is growing all the time. I’m now even able to distinguish the Grahams from the Gordons and the MacLachlan from the MacLennan, however I suspect it’ll be a while before I can recognise all 500 of our tartans!
One of the most exciting jobs in the office is answering the telephone. With every call comes the opportunity to chat to a new customer to discuss their specifications for their custom made items, guide them through the ordering process or answer any questions they have about our products. One question I was recently asked:
‘Should I have my kilt made to Sett or to Stripe?’
Well, I wasn’t sure about this one and I hadn’t been asked this before so off I went to find out. Basically it’s all about the pleats. Pictured left is a kilt made "To Stripe" and to the right is "To Sett". It is quite impressive how different they look and now we will try to explain how this look is achieved.
Kilt Pleating To Sett
Pleating "To Sett" means to have a continuation of the pattern of the tartan consistently across the back of the kilt, closely mirroring the front. Each pleat is carefully folded so the full sett so that the repeated design of the tartan is maintained, creating a harmonious flow of the pattern all the way around. This is the most traditional and popular pleating style for kilts, particularly for formal wear.
The size and complexity of your chosen tartan’s sett will influence how many pleats your kilt will have. Typically, a well-fitted kilt for an average adult requires between 25 and 34 pleats. A skilled kilt maker will ensure the sett is matched perfectly across the pleats, which is a mark of expert craftsmanship. Too few pleats can make them appear overly wide, while too many can cause them to look too narrow getting the balance right is key to a smart, elegant finish.
Kilt Pleating To Stripe
Pleating "To Stripe" means that each pleat is folded so a specific vertical stripe from the tartan is centred within the fold. This creates a strong, uniform look across the back of the kilt, which contrasts with the front. It’s a bold and structured finish traditionally seen in military kilts for its clean, striking appearance.
Most often, the stripe used is the central or most prominent line in the tartan pattern. However, any vertical stripe within the design can be chosen as the focus. Each choice gives the kilt a slightly different look, with different colours and elements of the tartan becoming more pronounced. This makes pleating to stripe a great way to customise your kilt’s overall effect while still maintaining a balanced pleat structure.
This method can also be more fabric-efficient, depending on the tartan, and is commonly used in school or pipe band kilts for a coordinated finish that uses material wisely. Whether for tradition, practicality, or personal style, pleating to stripe is a distinctive option that brings precision and visual impact to your kilt.
Really it’s down to personal preference which way you would like to have your Kilt made. To Sett is the most popular but can take a little more time and fabric than to Stripe. In addition some people prefer the look of the ‘swish’ in a kilt made to Stripe than to Sett. However depending on the sett size not all tartans look good to Stripe so choose your tartan first, then decide how you want to have it made.
Explore our range of kilts
Whether you're just beginning your kilt journey or refining the details of your dream outfit, we're always happy to guide you through every step of the process. From selecting your tartan and pleating style to choosing the right measurements and finishing touches, our team is here to ensure your kilt is exactly what you want and looks fantastic.
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You’re very welcome to visit us in store, where you can see the fabrics, talk through your options in person, and get a real feel for the craftsmanship involved. If you're further afield, we also offer virtual appointments, so you can chat with our team from the comfort of your home. Either way, we’ll make sure the experience is relaxed, informative, and tailored entirely to you.
