Tailcoats - History and Tartan

Tailcoats are generally made from 100% worsted wool and are fully lined. Similarly to other formal jackets and coats, the waist of the tailcoat is designed to sit on the wearer's natural waistline, however the tailcoat differs in that the hem ends shortly below the waistline. The name 'tailcoat' comes from the single centre vent that runs down the back of the coat from the bend of the knees to the waist. This splits the back of the coat in two creating 'tails'. Tailcoats can be worn with high waisted trousers, a shirt and a waistcoat with matching braces worn under the waistcoat for a full morning suit. In events such as white tie and formal balls, a top hat, gloves and bow tie can be added to complete the outfit.

To update the traditional morning suit and add your Scottish heritage to your attire, we suggest Tartan Tails with a contrasting lining made uniquely for you. Add a matching Wool Tartan Bow Tie and Tartan Waistcoat to complete the look, or go the whole hog and wear matchingTartan Trousers for a truly different outfit.

The tailcoat can also be referred to as an evening tailcoat or dress coat which differs in style to the morning or cutaway coat. The evening tailcoat is double-breasted with silk-faced lapels worn after 6pm, while the morning or cutaway coat is single-breasted and has self-faced lapels in the same fabric as the coat, worn to events that start before 6pm. The tailcoat is intended to fit the body closely, although is modernly designed to not be closed or fastened. This means having a tailcoat tailored to the wearer is essential. We can do this for you at our Edinburgh shop or one of our pop up shops. The coat's sleeves should reveal the cuff of the shirt, and should traditionally have a narrow cut. Because of it's extremely slimming nature in exaggerating the waist, creating longer looking legs, and creating a v-shaped torso with it's use of peaked lapels, the tailcoat understandably became popular evening wear.

Starting as a long riding coat in the mid-eighteenth century, the tailcoat was developed in England by cutting the front of the coat below the waist for practicality when riding a horse. This new design allowed the tails to fall to the back of the horse without impairing the rider. Alternatively, two buttons were included at the back on the waistline of the coat to fold up the tails and button them at the back. This style feature is still often included on modern tailcoats today. George Brummell then brought the riding garment to a formal setting, creating a new fashion in men's day wear. The tailcoat soon transitioned into evening wear, and by 1860 it was only worn in the evening for formal events.

In our exploration of the tailcoat and its history we had to include these fabulous pictures from an Italian company who asked us to make them some stand out tartan tails for their fashion show. Quite an outfit in the bold Macleod Dress Modern tartan! Watch out for more images coming soon as our most recent photoshoot included a less bold, but equally dapper, set of tails in the Shaw Ancient tartan.