The Auld Alliance was a historical agreement between Scotland and France that formed a close friendship and alliance. It began in the late 13th century and lasted for several centuries. Scotland and France promised to support each other militarily and politically. They shared resources, traded goods, and helped each other in times of war. The Auld Alliance was a strong bond between the two nations, based on shared interests and a common enemy.
Each tartan can have multiple variations, the most common of which are Ancient, Modern, Weathered, Hunting and Dress
About tartan variations
Before 1860 fabrics were coloured using animal and vegetable dyes. This produced the softer colours typical of the Ancient tartans, mossy greens and sky blues, a more orangey red and some would say showing off the pattern to much greater effect as as the contrasts are much brighter than the Modern tartans. The pattern or sett remains the same across all variations of a single tartan, and only the shades or tones vary.
Post 1860 chemical dyes replaced the natural animal and vegetable dyes and the Modern Tartans were born with their stronger and bolder colours. The soft greens and blues become bottle green and navy blue, reds are scarlet.
Before 1860 fabrics were coloured using animal and vegetable dyes. This produced the softer colours typical of the Ancient tartans. Post 1860 chemical dyes replaced the natural animal and vegetable dyes and the Modern Tartans were born with their stronger and bolder colours. The soft greens and blues become bottle green and navy blue, reds are scarlet.
The Modern tartans are often the more subtle combinations such as the classic Black Watch Modern
Before 1860 fabrics were coloured using animal and vegetable dyes. This produced the softer, more earthy colours typical of the Weathered tartans, reminiscent of bolder colours subjected to wind, rain and sunshine producing beautiful faded tones, olive greens and browns, and very light blues with reds that are more pink than red.
Some mills refer to the Weathered tartans as Muted.
The Hunting Tartans are the camouflage tartans and some clans don't have these variations because they are already predominantly green or brown and don't need amendment to blend in with nature's colours. The Black Watch or Gunn tartans are examples of these, whereas a tartan such as the Fraser is predominantly red and would not provide much cover for men out hunting.
One thing to remember if you are ordering your tartan to match an existing kilt or accessory is that although the sett and colours are the same, there can be a slight difference in colour from one mill to the next. This is purely down to yarn dying so if you need an exact match we suggest you order a swatch to double check.
The Dress Tartans were designed as the name suggests for celebrations and highland dance. The sett or pattern of the tartan remains the same and the main colour is changed to white, or extra white is added to the pattern to give it a brighter, more "fancy" appearance. The Scots do like to bend the rules and occasionally instead of white thread, yellow is used and this is where the rather wild MacLeod Dress Modern and Barclay Dress Modern came from.
One thing to remember if you are ordering your tartan to match an existing kilt or accessory is that although the sett and colours are the same, there can be a slight difference in colour from one mill to the next. This is purely down to yarn dying so if you need an exact match we suggest you order a swatch to double check.
The Auld Alliance was made between the kingdoms of Scotland and France in 1295 for the purpose of controlling England's numerous invasions and expansion plans. Drawn up by John Balliol of Scotland and Philip IV of France, it was primarily militaristic and diplomatic, but for most ordinary Scots it brought tangible benefits through jobs as mercenaries in France’s armies and of course, a steady supply of fine French wines. The alliance was continuously used throughout history, during the Hundred Year War, the famous Garde Ecossaise, the time of Joan of Arc, during the Battle of Flodden and through the time of Mary Queen of Scots to name a few. The Auld Alliance extended into the Scottish population in a number of ways, affecting architecture, the Scots language, cuisine and law, among much more.
A notable precedent of the alliance was during one of England's greatest military achievements was Henry V’s victory at the Battle of Agincourt in 1415, but this was disastrous for the French which led to the near national collapse. In desperation, the French Dauphin turned to the Scots, England's traditional enemy, in accords to the auld alliance for help. Anxious for a fight with the 'Auld Enemy' as ever, more than 12,000 Scots bound for France and at the Battle of Bauge in 1421, the Franco-Scots crushed the English army killing the Duke of Clarence who was King Henry V's brother. The Scots army was well rewarded with titles, honours and an abundance of fine food and drink.
Although it was never officially revoked, the Auld Alliance was considered to have ended with the signing of the Treaty of Edinburgh in 1560, which was agreed between France and England that all military forces will withdraw from Scotland. Altogether, the alliance played a significant role in the relations among Scotland, France and England during those 265 years.
The 'Auld Alliance' Hebridean tartan celebrates the the alliance between Scotland and France and includes beautiful shades of blue and grey with the tweed finish that make the Hebridean range of tartans so special.
Since 2018, the Auld Alliance Trophy is awarded to the winner of the match between France and Scotland during the annual Rugby Six Nations Championship, commissioned by Scottish Rugby and the French Rugby Federation in tribute to the rugby players from both nations who fought during the First World War. It specifically honours the captains of the two nations last matches before the Great War - Eric Milroy of Scotland and Mercel Burgun of France, both who passed during the conflict.
The trophy itself was designed and created by world-famous trophy makers Thomas Lyte, using traditional silversmithing and goldsmithing skills, combined with modern methods. It stands at an impressive height of 60cm and was hand spun from hallmarked Sterling Silver. The sweeping contemporary form of the trophy rises up in remembrance, while the clipped edge represents the lives that were tragically cut short during the war. Going around the trophy is a band of poppies and cornflowers, with the bright mirror finish applied to the surface of the sterling silver allows for personal reflection of remembrance. Read more about French and Scottish Rugby traditions on our France v Scotland - Celebrating the Breton Tartans blog.
The Scots word auld, meaning old, has become an affectionate term for the long-lasting association between the two countries.