Each tartan can have multiple variations, the most common of which are Ancient, Modern, Weathered, Hunting and Dress
About tartan variations
Before 1860 fabrics were coloured using animal and vegetable dyes. This produced the softer colours typical of the Ancient tartans, mossy greens and sky blues, a more orangey red and some would say showing off the pattern to much greater effect as as the contrasts are much brighter than the Modern tartans. The pattern or sett remains the same across all variations of a single tartan, and only the shades or tones vary.
Post 1860 chemical dyes replaced the natural animal and vegetable dyes and the Modern Tartans were born with their stronger and bolder colours. The soft greens and blues become bottle green and navy blue, reds are scarlet.
Before 1860 fabrics were coloured using animal and vegetable dyes. This produced the softer colours typical of the Ancient tartans. Post 1860 chemical dyes replaced the natural animal and vegetable dyes and the Modern Tartans were born with their stronger and bolder colours. The soft greens and blues become bottle green and navy blue, reds are scarlet.
The Modern tartans are often the more subtle combinations such as the classic Black Watch Modern
Before 1860 fabrics were coloured using animal and vegetable dyes. This produced the softer, more earthy colours typical of the Weathered tartans, reminiscent of bolder colours subjected to wind, rain and sunshine producing beautiful faded tones, olive greens and browns, and very light blues with reds that are more pink than red.
Some mills refer to the Weathered tartans as Muted.
The Hunting Tartans are the camouflage tartans and some clans don't have these variations because they are already predominantly green or brown and don't need amendment to blend in with nature's colours. The Black Watch or Gunn tartans are examples of these, whereas a tartan such as the Fraser is predominantly red and would not provide much cover for men out hunting.
One thing to remember if you are ordering your tartan to match an existing kilt or accessory is that although the sett and colours are the same, there can be a slight difference in colour from one mill to the next. This is purely down to yarn dying so if you need an exact match we suggest you order a swatch to double check.
The Dress Tartans were designed as the name suggests for celebrations and highland dance. The sett or pattern of the tartan remains the same and the main colour is changed to white, or extra white is added to the pattern to give it a brighter, more "fancy" appearance. The Scots do like to bend the rules and occasionally instead of white thread, yellow is used and this is where the rather wild MacLeod Dress Modern and Barclay Dress Modern came from.
One thing to remember if you are ordering your tartan to match an existing kilt or accessory is that although the sett and colours are the same, there can be a slight difference in colour from one mill to the next. This is purely down to yarn dying so if you need an exact match we suggest you order a swatch to double check.
Many tartans can be connected with Royal Household today. The most commonly known royal associated tartan is Stewart Royal, with the Royal House of Stewart or Stuart of Scotland and can be traced back to a Breton nobleman in 1097. When the reign of James V ended in 1542, the Stewart succession continued through Mary Queen of Scots to James VI who died in 1625. On the death of Prince Charles Edward, Bonnie Prince Charlie, in 1788 and his brother Prince Henry, the male line ended. However, the House of Stewart continued down the female line to Queen Victoria and onward to our Royal Family we know and love today. During 1920s, it was highly popular to name fashion tartans after members of the Royal Family of the day, with Princess Mary falling into this category. Mary, Princess Royal and Countess of Hardwood George V and Queen Mary's only daughter, and was also the aunt of the current British monarch, Queen Elizabeth II. She carried notable royal duties when carrying charity work in support of servicemen and their families during the First World War.
The Princess Mary tartan is based on the Royal Stewart, but with a predominate dark green base instead of the infamous red. It was originally described in 1930 as the Green Stuart. The same tartan applies to Princess Beatrice today.