The Castles of Clan MacEwen

To start, we’d like to give you a brief introduction to the MacEwen’s hereditary territory on the Cowal Peninsula of Argyll and Bute. We are most interested in Kilfinan and Otter Ferry, where Ewen of Otter, the clan’s progenitor, settled long ago in the 13^th century.

Kilfinan and Otter Ferry are small hamlets on the eastern side of Loch Fyne, both blessed with extraordinary views across the water, and surrounded by numerous challenging yet stunning hiking trails.

As Loch Fyne is a sea loch (the longest in Scotland) the area is also widely known for its delicious seafood, particularly its Loch Fyne oysters.

Another popular draw of Kilfinan is the local parish church, which dates back to the 13^th century, with the earliest known records of its existence being grants made between 1231 and 1241 to Paisley Abbey.

While much of the original structure has been preserved, there have also been a number of notable architectural additions made over the years. In 1633, Sir Coll Lamont added the Lamont North Aisle, and in 1759 the bird-cage belfry was added to the west end of the church.

For many years, one of the church windows remained broken allowing swallows to nest there, coming and going as they pleased. The window has now been repaired, which threatened to disrupt the birds’ convenient home set up, but luckily this was taken into account, and visitors today are reminded to leave the door open in order to keep the swallows’ access free!

The churchyard still bears signs of Kilfinan’s place in Clan MacEwen’s past, as several MacEwen graves can be spotted in the ancient and peaceful cemetery. One such tombstone is inscribed ‘erected by Donald Martin, Farmer, Park, in memory of his wife Ann McEwen, who departed this life on the 3^{rd of} May 1851, aged 60 years.’

Ann and Donald had married in Kilfinan on the 27^th of April 1815, mostly likely at the same parish church. It is touching to see the old building accompany a family of MacEwens throughout their lives, many centuries after the clan’s originator first set up home in Kilfinan.

Kilfinan and Otter Ferry hold special significance for the clan to this day, as the Clan MacEwen Society hold their regular annual general meetings and family conventions in the area, working to keep the MacEwen name alive and thriving in the very spot where it all began!

Not far from the church, on a rocky and desolate stretch of Loch Fyne’s coast, stands the ruins of Caisteal Mhic Eoghain, or MacEwen’s Castle.

The Cowal Archaeological Society carried out an excavation in 1968 that revealed the earliest building on this site was a medieval ‘dun,’ or fort. This was added to over the years, until eventually the fort was expanded into a grand castle. The ancient walls were used to create bolstering defences, and passages leading to the sea were forged.

The grand castle was long held by Clan MacEwen of Otter, until King James I ordered that, if the clan chief was to die without an heir, the castle would pass over to the Campbells.

In 1493, Swene MacEwen, the chief at the time, died leaving behind no heir, so Caisteal Mhic Eoghain sadly left the clan.

The MacEwen family have since reclaimed some ownership over their old ancestral seat; in 1990, the Clan MacEwen Society had a cairn erected among the castle ruins to outline the clan’s claim on the land, and to point interested tourists in the right direction. You can read their description of the work, and learn how to reach the spot on their website here.

If you can’t make it to the remote Kilfinan you can check out a variety of artefacts found at the castle, including a 12^th century crucifix, at the Glasgow Art Gallery and Museum.

Our last MacEwen site for today is slightly less well known. The clan had a Northern Stronghold, made up of a motte and bailey, called Cnoc Mhic Eoghainn. It is situated on the Ballimore Estate on the shores of Loch Fyne, a short distance away from the birthplace of the clan.

The motte and bailey were once a popular style of fortification, consisting of a wooden keep positioned on a ring of raised earth, overlooking a private courtyard. Cnoc Mhic Eoghainn is a great example of modern day remains of this typical medieval building style.

The mound rises around 25-30 metres, and its sides are now overgrown with plants and shrubbery – creating a somewhat eerie atmosphere. When the ancient Clan MacEwen were residents, the surrounding land would have been cleared, giving them a flawless view of the surrounding countryside and nearby loch. The flat top is an oval shape and now contains a stone structure that functioned as a burial ground for neighbouring clan, the Campbells of Otter.

Sadly, this fascinating site seems to have gone largely unexplored! We have been unable to find records of any major archaeological digs or investigations, so it is deeply intriguing to wonder what old MacEwen relics may lay undiscovered in the ruins.

Image Sources:

Shoreline Kilfinan Bay, Loch Fyne - By John Ferguson, CC BY-SA 2.0

The Cairn erected by Clan MacEwen Society - By John Ferguson, CC BY-SA 2.0

Loch Fyne Sunrise - By Visit Scotland / Kenny Lam