Scottish Headwear History

Ah, the glengarry hat. It's not quite a beret, not quite a tam, but packs a punch of Scottish flair nonetheless. This iconic headwear, perched atop countless kilted calves, boasts a history as rich and colourful (well, maybe not that colourful) as the tartans themselves.

Let's take a wee trip back in time, shall we? We find ourselves in the 18th century Highlands, a land of rolling hills, fierce warriors, and sheep (lots of sheep). The traditional headwear of the day was the balmoral bonnet, which looked smashing but wasn't exactly ideal for, say, charging into battle. Enter the glengarry: a simpler, sleeker option that was all about practicality. Made from thick, warm wool (perfect for those chilly Highland winds), it featured a jaunty top bobble (the "toorie") that some say could deflect a stray sword (though health and safety regulations probably wouldn't recommend testing that theory).
 

Was the glengarry invented by Colonel Alexander Ranaldson MacDonell of Glengarry of Clan MacDonell of Glengarry in 1794, as some say?
 

Colonel Alastair Ranaldson Macdonell of Glengarry

The history books get a bit fuzzy here. The name appears to have stuck but what's not clear is if the early pictures we see of civilians and Fencible infantry soldiers are true glengarries, which could be folded flat, or rather standard military bonnets of the time, just tilted at a more stylish angle.

The first true military glengarry might not have appeared until 1841, thanks to Lieutenant Colonel Lauderdale Maule, who supposedly introduced it for his pipers of the 79th Foot.

Fast forward to the mid-1800s, and the glengarry becomes the coolest hat (well, un-dress headgear, to be precise) for Scottish regiments in the British Army. By the 1860s, it had become the standard piper's hat (except for the Black Watch, who preferred the full-on feather bonnet).

The glengarry's popularity wasn't limited to the Scots. Between 1868 and 1897, even many regular British soldiers sported the glengarry as their everyday cap. It went through a few fashion evolutions after that, but by World War II, the glengarry was back on the heads of all Scottish regiments in the British Army (except for a couple of regiments who preferred green or kept things peaked).
 

Ranald MacKinnon Montgomerie's Highlanders (77th Regiment of Foot)

Different regiments got to show off their personalities with diced bands in red, white, and blue (royal regiments) or red, white, and green (everyone else). The Black Watch and the Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders, however, kept things simple with plain glengarries, while the 93rd (Sutherland) Highlanders rocked a unique red and white checked pattern, a tribute to their bravery at the Battle of Balaclava. Even the toorie got in on the action, sporting colours like red, royal blue, or black depending on the regiment.

Percy Sillitoe

In 1932, Percy Sillitoe, the Chief Constable in Glasgow, decided to ditch the custodian helmets for his officers. He updated their peaked caps with a brand new feature: a black and white checked band. This design, inspired by the diced patterns on Scottish regiment glengarries, became an instant hit. Nicknamed the "Sillitoe tartan," the diced band soon adorned police caps across the pond in Australia and New Zealand, then spread throughout the UK and even reached places like Chicago! Seems like this Scottish touch added some international flair to police uniforms.

Today, the glengarry is still a staple of Scottish dress, proudly worn by the Royal Regiment of Scotland and civilian pipe bands alike. Men wear them with Highland dress, and women in pipe bands have even adopted the glengarry as their own. 
 

The Glengarry is the headdress worn by Officers of the Boys' Brigade; namely Warrant Officers, Lieutenants and Brevet Captains. The Glengarry is also worn by male members of staff at the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the King's Official residence in Scotland.

The glengarry's tilt has undergone a fascinating shift since World War II. Imagine the cap angled sharply, the right side dipping low near the ear, while the left side with the cap badge sat higher on the head. However, post-war trends saw a preference for a more balanced approach. Now, the glengarry is typically worn straight, the point positioned squarely over the right eye for a more uniform appearance. It's all about keeping a level head!

So, the next time you see someone sporting a glengarry, remember – it's not just a hat, it's a piece of history, a symbol of resilience, and maybe even a secret weapon against rogue swords (but definitely don't test that last one).

We find ourselves in the 18th century, a land of kilts, clans, and, of course, headwear. The reigning champion at the time was the tam o' shanter but, the balmoral offered a sturdier option. The bonnet features a distinctive rounded crown and a flowing plume that added a touch of flamboyant flair.

Soldiers from a Highland regiment wearing Balmoral or blue bonnets

Here's where things get interesting. The balmoral bonnet we know today actually evolved from the earlier "blue bonnet," a simpler knitted design worn by everyday folks. Dating back to at least the 16th century, the blue bonnet was a staple of everyday life. The balmoral bonnet, with its more elaborate form and often made of finer cloth, became a symbol of social status.

But the balmoral bonnet wasn't all about showmanship. It served a practical purpose too. The deep crown provided warmth and protection, making it a perfect companion for those long, blustery Highland nights.

Lord George Murray, 1st Duke of Atholl

Soldiers from Highland regiments wore a version very similar to the blue bonnet, sometimes called the Kilmarnock bonnet. This military balmoral bonnet featured a ribbon cockade and a small toorie (pompon) – a feature that carried over to the civilian version. There was even a taller, fancier version for full dress uniforms that sported an ostrich-plume hackle.

Over time, the military balmoral bonnet transformed into the well-known glengarry, while the civilian balmoral bonnet retained its flatter, softer form. Interestingly, in the 20th century, the Black Watch regiment brought back the balmoral bonnet as part of their full dress uniform! Sadly, after the amalgamation of Scottish regiments in 2006, the military balmoral was retired, and the glengarry became the standard.
 

The name "balmoral" might have you picturing a fancy royal residence, and you'd be on the right track! Queen Victoria, a big fan of all things Scottish, popularised the bonnet after she and her beloved Prince Albert started vacationing at Balmoral Castle. Suddenly, the balmoral bonnet became all the rage, not just in Scotland but across the British Isles (and probably even reached a few royal courts across Europe).

Today, you can still spot the occasional balmoral bonnet at a Highland gathering or even on a particularly stylish gentleman attending a Burns Night supper. Like the Glengarry, it's not just a hat, it's a piece of history, a symbol of Scottish resilience, and a reminder that even the most practical headwear can be surprisingly fashionable (especially with a strategically placed feather plume). After all, who says warmth and protection can't come with a touch of flamboyant flair?

Lets look at the custom of wearing a feather in your bonnet.

Hats with feathers have been worn by men and women from cultures all over the world. From the luxurious plume in Henry VIII’s bejewelled bonnet to the wispy creations of Edwardian milliners, they have been objects of fashion, status, and utility.

Henry VIII (Image source- ART UK)

But what of Scotland…

Feathers used in their current form were worn by hereditary chiefs beginning in the late 18th century however wearing feathers in headwear goes back a little further than this in Scotland.

Portraiture from the Highlands shows men wearing feathers in their hats as far back as the 17th century, although in this instance it is in the more ‘western’ style like the portrait below. 

Lord Mungo Murray, Son of 1st Marquess of Atholl (Image Source ART UK)

To begin though which hats were these feathers worn in? 

The blue bonnet was the early form of the balmoral and other Scottish headwear. These were worn across Scotland in the early modern period and were so ubiquitous for rural workers that today many people still call their hat a ‘bunnet. Although initially worn in the Lowlands, they became a staple of Highland dress. 

By the 18th century it could be hard to distinguish between a traditional blue bonnet, a proto-balmoral, and other variations of headwear that would come into existence. Below is a 1713 double portrait by Richard Waitt, of Alisdair Mòr Grant ‘Champion to the Laird of Grant’, and the Grant piper William Cumming, both now hanging in the National Museum of Scotland. 

Alisdair Mòr Grant ‘Champion to the Laird of Grant’, and the Grant piper William Cumming (Image Source National Museums Scotland)

Indeed this portrait by the great Edinburgh portraitist Henry Raeburn shows a young MacGregor wearing plumes of feathers in the early military style diced in the late 18th century.

Sir Evan Murray-MacGregor of MacGregor (Image Source Christies)

Depictions weren’t always complimentary though, the legendary satirist James Gillray sketched a stereotypical ‘sawney’, a pejorative depiction of a Scot almost always wearing Highland dress. This most famous depiction called ‘Sawney in the Bog-House’, 1779, shows a Scot in Highland dress including a proto-balmoral and feather. 

Sawney in the Bog-House (Image Source National Portrait Gallery)

Later, in 1804, John Sinclair wrote a pamphlet for fellow members of his Highland societies and interested individuals to perfect their outfits. 

Sinclair wrote that while it was common for Highland men to wear ‘innumerable’ feathers in their bonnets ‘at present’ (1804 of course!), in fact the style worn by chiefs and ‘other persons of distinction’ historically was the eagle feather.

He says that ordinary Gaels wore ‘tufts, or sprigs of trees or shrubs, which distinguished the different clans, as heather by the Macdonalds, holly by the Macfarlanes, fir by the Macgregors, &c.’. 

Maybe take Sinclair’s findings with a pinch of salt, Sinclair said this was ‘the best information I have been able to collect’. That being said Sinclair took his Highland dress seriously, and was one to take seriously in 18th century Edinburgh.

Later Victorian representations of costume in the medieval Scottish Highlands show men in chainmail and tartan hose with pointy eagle feathers and foliage in their helmets. 

Tétart-Vittu, Françoise, Auguste Racinet’s The Complete Costume History

Never let baronial etiquette decide your style (it’s 2025 not 1525, you will no longer be arrested for breaking sumptuary law!) but if you do like a few rules here are the guidelines:

Feathers are often worn in balmoral bonnets although feathers can also be worn in a glengarry. These are the two most popular styles of Highland headwear.

Eagle feathers are worn at the side of the bonnet behind a clan crest as a symbol of status.

• One feather can be worn by armigers, this means they have the right to bear personal arms. 
• Two feathers are worn by clan chieftains, this often pertains to the chieftains of Highland games today, but also the heads of branches of clans. 
• Three feathers are worn by clan chiefs, the hereditary leaders of a lineage.

These feathers are typically worn at clan and chief gatherings rather than formal events.

Remember you aren’t breaking the law if you wear a feather in your bonnet but you might get a few funny looks at a clan gathering.

Here are clan chiefs gathered to commemorate the Battle of Flodden 1513. How many feathers can you spot?

Clan Chiefs gathered to commemorate the Battle of Flodden 1513

Clan chiefs and chieftains aren’t the only Scots to wear feathers in their bonnets!

The Royal Company of Archers, formed in 1676 and now based at the Palace of Holyrood House in Edinburgh, wear an eagle’s feather in their bonnet along with a white and green cockade. Much like the clan chieftains and chiefs, officers within the company are entitled to wear two and the Captain-General wears three. 

The archers were founded from a long, occasionally reluctant, history of archery in Scotland (James I once banned football so that Scots would focus on their archery to keep out the English neighbours!).

The King’s Body Guard for Scotland, The Royal Company of Archers

This sketch, presumably taken from life in 1822, depicts two men in Highland dress and feathered bonnets alongside an archer in the Royal Company of Archers during George IV’s visit to Edinburgh. 

Highland dress and feathered bonnets Sketch (Image Source National Galleries of Scotland)

Whether you’re a clan chief or totally green to Highland dress we hope you feel inspired by this custom and maybe put your own sartorial twist on Scottish headwear!

The tam o' shanter, a name that conjures images of kilts, bagpipes, and maybe even a mischievous grin. But this iconic Scottish bonnet is more than just a punchline in a Robert Burns poem (though it gets major points for that too). It's a headwear hero. 
 

Back in 16th century Scotland, the headwear of choice was the blue bonnet, a simple knitted design made from readily available natural dyes like woad or indigo. These early bonnets laid the foundation for the tam o' shanter we know today.

Fast forward a few centuries, and the tam o' shanter emerges, sporting a distinctive flat shape and a trademark woollen ball on the crown, called a toorie.
 

But the tam o' shanter wasn't just about aesthetics. Originally hand-knitted from wool and stretched on a wooden disc, it provided much-needed warmth and protection from the harsh Scottish weather. Unlike its showier cousin, the feather-adorned balmoral bonnet, the tam o' shanter was a practical choice for everyday life.

The opening scene of the poem

Interestingly, the name "tam o' shanter" itself didn't appear until the 19th century, after the publication of Robert Burns' famous poem about a roguish farmer named Tam. Here's a wee snippet to give you a taste:

"When chap the stirrup horn did blaw,

'Mid roistering blades and rattling straw,

Wi' mony a faithful clan-king cup,

And birdie chirps that held them up!"

The poem's popularity cemented the name "tam o' shanter" in our collective consciousness.

During World War I, Scottish troops needed a more practical alternative to the glengarry bonnet in the trenches. Enter the "khaki Balmoral bonnet," later nicknamed the "tam o' shanter" or "ToS" for short. This military version was often made from separate pieces of khaki serge cloth, a far cry from the hand-knitted original.

A soldier of the Royal Scots Fusiliers wearing a Tam o' Shanter in 1942.

The tam o' shanter tradition continues today. The Royal Regiment of Scotland and some Canadian regiments still wear the ToS as part of their uniform, with different colored hackles (feathers) distinguishing between battalions.

• For over 95 years (as of 2017), the Tam O'Shanter Inn has been a Los Angeles institution. Founded by the Van de Kamp bakery family in 1922, it holds the distinction of being the city's oldest restaurant continuously run by the same family in the same location.
• Inspired by Robert Burns' poem Tam o' Shanter, Tamfest celebrates Ayrshire's quirky Halloween traditions. Offering a a fun and inclusive festival for families since 2015, with everything from spooky arts and crafts to lively music and theatrical performances.
• "The Number of the Beast" by Iron Maiden is said to be loosely based on the famous poem.

Tartan Tam's in the New York City & Stewart Royal Tartans

The tam, tammy, or tam cap, has been a fashionable women's accessory since the early 1920s and was derived from the tam o' shanter. Today the Tam has become a quintessentially Scottish staple, typically made in tartan and still featuring the traditional pom pom or toorie on the top. Tam's are now generally made with an elasticated finish looking great on both men and women and children, perfect for the whole clan!

Who knows, wearing a tam may even inspire you to write a poem (though aiming for something shorter than Tam o' Shanter might be a wise choice).

Image Sources

Percy Sillitoe - Los Angeles Times, CC BY 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons