Drovers Tryst in Crieff

Have you ever heard the well-trod idiom 'all roads lead to Rome'? Well whoever claimed that all roads lead to Rome clearly didn’t own cattle in Scotland 300 years ago. Otherwise, they would have made a caveat that all roads lead to Rome except those with cattle in which case all roads lead to Crieff. 

If you were to enter the Crieff cattle market in the early 18th century, you would find a sprawl of human and animal activity coming from this busy town. Drovers, merchants, cattle, dogs, townspeople, bank clerks, and enforcers of the law, amongst many others could be found at these trysts; a hub of activity. You might hear a babble of Gaelic, Scots, and English and see people wearing kilts, breeches, or patterned gowns. Best not to think about the smell. 

By the beginning of the 18th century drovers would lead their cattle hundreds of miles from all points of the Highlands to Crieff on the Highland boundary where craggy, heathered mountain melts to verdant farmland.

But hang on, what is cattle droving and why was Crieff so important?

Crieff from the south - credit: Crieff Succeeds / Damian Shields

Droving in Scotland occurred throughout much of the medieval and early modern period. Cattle were were moved en-masse by dovers on foot towards a market to be sold. Before the 1700's this was often to smaller local markets however the expansive market at Crieff really took off in the eighteenth century. Crieff is situated on the Highland Boundary Fault in central Scotland making it a natural meeting point for both those heading south and those heading north.

Drovers from the Outer Hebrides and Skye, the North East, the Northern Highlands, Argyll, and Southern Scotland, met at a handful of roads towards Crieff. Once near Perthshire they would meet at points such as Killin before passing through Glen Almond and Glen Lednock to the fields of Upper Strathearn. Popular too was the route from Aberfeldy through the Sma’ Glen or from Killin through Glen Ogle and past Loch Earn. However Scotland was rapidly changing and these two ways were about to become militarised roads in the struggle for the modern British state. 

Haldane's Map of Drove Roads - The Drove Roads of Scotland, A.R.B Haldane, 1952

By the 1720’s the drove roads to Crieff began to intertwine with a series of roads built for the British Government following the 1715 Jacobite Rising by General Wade and his successor Major Caulfield. These became known as military roads and were part of a project of road, bridge, fortress, and barrack building throughout the Highlands from 1725, intended to pacify the land seen as treacherous in both terrain and spirit by the British state.  

Traditional routes from Aberfeldy through the Sma’ Glen and Glen Ogle were soon built upon, the British forces obviously seeing the same ease of way in these routes as the drovers. Paving did not help the drovers however and these roads wore down the hooves of the cattle, often leaving the drovers little choice but to find new routes or prioritise other ones. 

You can read more about Wade and Caulfield’s roads in our section The Military Road System in 18th Century Scotland below.

Bridge built by Wade in the Sma' Glen

Now a ubiquitous icon of Scotland, cattle was one of the biggest businesses in Early Modern Scotland. Fairs and markets were an essential part of life in Europe throughout the medieval and early modern period, bringing essential goods, communication, and even entertainment to rural communities and urban centres alike.

In an act of parliament from 1672 the Earl of Perth petitioned parliament for a third yearly (and weekly) market to the yearly fairs held at Michaelmas and St Thomas’ day every year. By the beginning of the 18th century Crieff’s fairs were flourishing, and by 1739 Bank of Scotland tellers brought in £3000 worth of notes into circulation for use at the market, a significant amount for a rural community. 

At the markets, Lowland and English merchants were the interested buyers, and the cattle would continue their journey south whilst their drovers might remain in Crieff a few more days before returning home north. 

You might see the titles cateran and drover used in the same sentence. Sometimes drovers and caterans are equated with another. Caterans were mercenaries within the Gaelic speaking world. The word Cateran comes from Gaelic ceatharn meaning ‘lightly armed warrior’, and the profession of ‘katherani’ was outlawed in 1384 under the rule of Robert II. Caterans had been in the service of Alexander Stewart, the Wolf of Badenoch, who had terrorised the North-East. 

Later, men known as caterans would serve Irish lords as mercenaries in the 16th century, often at the direction of their chief. However the conclusion of the Nine Years War in Ireland meant an end to this martial culture. Caterans had to take up another means of employment as they no longer had a patron willing to pay them for military service. Some of these caterans would become drovers. Of course, not all drovers in the 17th century had been caterans. Many had always worked with animals and the land. 

The droving life was hard, long days of labour walking and tending to their cattle. A drover might pass an inn such as the King’s House but most nights were spent in the elements. For sustenance? So it goes that cattle were bled and that some oats were kept in their sporran to allow them to make black pudding whilst on the road. 

At Crieff in 1723 the drovers and gentleman owners of cattle are described thus;

‘The Highland gentleman were mighty civil, dressed in their slashed waistcoats, a trousing (which is breeches and stocking of one piece of striped stuff) with a plaid for a cloak and a blue bonnet. They have a poniard, knife and fork in one sheath hanging at one side of their belt, their pistol at the other and their snuff mull before with a great broadsword at their side. Their attendance was very numerous all in a belted plaids, girt, like women’s petticoats down to the knee ; their thighs and half of the leg all bare. They had each a broadsword and poniard.' Quite the image!

Norman MacLeod by Allan Ramsay - Wikimedia

After the end of the ’45 rising, estates belonging to Jacobite traitors of the crown were forfeited, and many later annexed for the crown to run and 'improve'. After land enclosures of traditional grazing land around Crieff, drovers struggled to find land to feed their cattle. The Statistical Account for 1792 suggested that the enclosure of land around the town in 1750 resulted in the drovers having to find other grazing land to keep their cattle before the market. Alternative options were sought and the Falkirk market became a great success whilst Crieff’s dwindled before coming to an end. The dues at the Crieff market were also considered high, another death knell for the Crieff market. 

In the Old Statistical Accounts from 1793, older residents of Crieff apparently spoke of 'deep regret of the glorious scene displayed to view, when 30,000 black cattle in different droves, overspread the whole adjacent country for several miles around the town'.

Nonetheless droving continued until the end of the 1800's, although this traditional life was much altered by the technological advances of the 19th century.

Falkirk on a Tryst Night - Feel Falkirk

The modern Drovers Tryst in Crieff takes these ancient droving routes and provides a way for people today to connect with Scotland’s and Crieff’s heritage. 

Today’s tryst is lead by a dedicated group of volunteers who lead guided walks and other events across Strathearn, Perthshire, and even further afield. Venues like Strathearn Arts hold events for mark the tryst, melding walking, art, and heritage. 

You can view many of the events taking place on the Drovers Tryst website Here.

Journey through the Highlands today and it is likely you will travel by a series of roads built during the first half of the 18th century by the British government. 

These became known as military roads and were part of a project of road, bridge, fortress, and barrack building throughout the Highlands from 1725, intended to pacify a region seen as treacherous in both terrain and spirit by the British state.

No group or idea was more dangerous to the state in their own borders than Jacobitism, entailing a support for the Catholic Stuarts descended from James VII and II and his wife Mary of Modena to regain the throne. 

First a bit of etymology. Jacobitism came from the given name of the ruling Stewart/ Stuart monarchy of the Kingdom of Scotland and later Great Britain. All Scottish monarchs from James I, excluding Mary Queen of Scots, were named James until Charles I. Charles I continued this tradition by naming his second son James (later James VII and II). Thus the name James, in Latin Jacobus, was heavily associated with the Stuarts. 

Jacobites were supporters of the claim to the throne of Scotland and England (later Britain) of the Catholic children of deposed king James VII and II. Namely his son James Stuart (the King over the Water or the Old Pretender), and grandson Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie or the Young Pretender). James VII and II had been exiled in 1689 over his pro-Catholic policy in a staunchly protestant English parliament. Jacobites were made up largely of Episcopalian and Catholic Scots from the Highland region, although there was significant Irish support through the early period, as well as backing from more limited numbers of Lowland Scots and Englishmen.

Chimney plaque based on engraving of the King of France Louis XIV welcoming James VII and II to his new home, 1689 – Wikimedia

Skip the next section if you’re up on your British history!

But why? Well it’s a bit complex but essentially the reformation sweeps through Western and Northern Europe from 1517, including our Kingdom of Scotland, turning neighbour against neighbour, as the new protestant religions are discussed at secret meetings, enacted at the royal courts, and rioted into being in the burghs. 

Fast forward nearly two centuries, a bloody civil war called the War of Three Kingdoms, a Cromwellian Commonwealth, a Stuart restoration, and the Stuarts were about to split down the line dividing Catholic father and Protestant daughters. This father was James VII and II of Scotland and England. By 1689 England and Scotland are (at least in government) staunchly Protestant. James VII and II was exiled from Britain to France with his new wife Mary of Modena after he upset the English parliament by suspending it over Catholic rights. This was the so-called ‘Glorious Revolution’. The first daughter, Mary, became Queen with her husband William of Orange, and crown and parliament enacted the Bill of Rights officially barring any Catholic from the throne. Mary and William died without children, and James’ second daughter Anne becomes Queen. Her government managed to unite the Kingdoms of Scotland and England after decades of debate, and a canny bit of blackmail and bribery. This was very unpopular with most of the Scottish population, something to note for later. Anne died without living children in 1714. Enter the protestant Hanovers, claimants to the throne through James VI and I’s daughter Elizabeth Stuart. They continue to rule Britain to this day with some marital and politically savvy name changes along the way.

What had been going on with deposed King James in the meantime? The first Jacobite Rising largely took place in Ireland and concluded with the disastrous Battle of the Boyne in 1689. This was an embarrassing failure for James who fled back to France and never returned to Britain or Ireland again, but was only the beginning of a brutal and devastating war by Williamite forces in Ireland. In Scotland, subjects loyal to James rose up in rebellion, including James Claverhouse, Viscount Dundee. Dundee managed to raise a force of mostly Episcopalian clansmen. At the Battle of Killiecrankie in Perthshire, Viscount Dundee was killed despite the Jacobite victory. However by the summer of 1691 the Rising had faltered. 

James had a son, also called James, who was raised in a court of Catholic émigrés on the charity of the French monarch. James became the King over the Water or the Old Pretender depending on who you asked.

The 1715 Jacobite Rising was the third attempt to restore the line of James VII and II to the throne - there were other short-lived attempts in 1708 and 1719.  This was the first rebellion to occur after the Acts of Union, which was unpopular with much of the population. The Earl of Mar initiated the Rising before heading south collecting support along the way from nobles such as Lord Drummond and the Marquess of Tullibardine. The Jacobite army took Perth and continued on, however the Battle of Sherriffmuir was a failure and the rebellion ended soon after. Villages such as Crieff, Auchterarder, and Dunning were burnt by Jacobite troops on hearing that government soldiers were approaching. 

Enough was enough, the state knew changes were needed and embarked on a programme of fortification, garrisoning troops across Scotland. It was not until 1725 however that this began in earnest after the agitations caused by Simon Fraser, Lord Lovat. Lovat, who wanted his disbanded government company back, wrote to the King that the Highlands were disloyal. A government report written by George Wade in 1724 found that much of Lovat wrote was true. Thus General Wade’s project began. 

Those familiar with the national anthem of the United Kingdom will likely be aware of an additional stanza included in 1745 during the final Jacobite Rising. If you haven’t, here it is:

‘Lord, grant that Marshal Wade
May by thy mighty aid
Victory bring;
May he sedition hush,
and like a torrent rush
Rebellious Scots to crush!
God save the King!’

George Wade, later Field Marshall, was an Anglo-Irish army officer. Wade served in the British army across Europe for many years, however it is the years he spent fortifying Britain against Jacobitism that gave him his fame. 

Wade was given charge of a project of fortifying across Scotland, so that the government might more easily pacify the Highland region which gave them much grievance. It was felt that there was disloyalty in much of its leadership, high levels of rebellious activity, as well as the Gaelic culture that those in power viewed as foreign and uncivilised. Wade was named Commander in Chief of His Majesty’s forces, castles, forts and barracks in North Britain in 1725, a whiggish term for Scotland in the long eighteenth century. 

Field Marshall George Wade, 1673 - 1748. Commander-in-chief in Scotland, attrib. Johan van Diest, 1731 – Wikimedia

Above is a painting of Field Marshall Wade; take a closer look at the background. You will easily spot the roads carved into mountain, rising up as if to the heavens, the line of men paving the next road under the watch of British flags, and the new bridge that stands proudly across a gushing river, previously difficult to pass, now just another difficulty subdued by the British state. These were Wade’s achievements and they were immortalised with him. Wade is placed at the front clearly the subject of the painting, yet, the Highland landscape and his work takes up nearly as much space. Wade’s expression is one of quiet triumph. The painting shows the achievement not just of Wade but also the growing might of the British state.

Not all was at ease though. The rebellion of 1715 showed the widespread discontent with the current ruling class and the establishment of union. 

It might be easier to think of Britain in this time as an ‘experiment’. Continuation of this political union called ‘Britain’ was not a given. Indeed until the 1730s there was no economic benefit to union so far as Scotland was concerned and thus the core argument for union unfulfilled. Wade himself subdued riots in response to new malt taxes from the British parliament in line with English malt taxes. The malt tax riots were only one disturbance in over half a century of unrest. 

Economic matters alone did not create the rebellious conditions of the early 18th century; intense nationalistic, religious, and dynastic concerns were major factors. Combining these three issues, Jacobitism was by far the strongest threat to the state within Britain.

Map of Wade and Caulfield’s roads, the red lines show the initial work carried out by Wade, the black lines show the later work carried out by Caulfield

In the initial period, Wade re-established the independent companies, garrisoned further troops across the Highlands, and began building Fort Augustus. In 1725 Wade had begun to build a section of road, and by 1726 road building became an official policy. The first stretch of building occurred in Inverness-shire, before beginning on the Dunkeld to Inverness road. Wade then began to build from Crieff to Dalnacardoch in 1729. 

You can still see the old military roads in Crieff, where we have our third store. The road begins at the side of the Drummond Arms on what is now Hill Street, continues on what is now Ferntower Road, follows the path at Crieff Golf Course making its way around the Knock, cuts past the Monzie road, following parts of the A822 and A826 through the Sma’ Glen to Aberfeldy. There are some good resources available online and in print if you’re a confident walker and want to try walking these historic roads. 

Road building continued until 1731, when the last section built by Wade was complete. Wade then focused on strengthening strongholds. The project was handed over to Wade’s colleague Major John Caulfield in 1740. 

Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland. Map drawn by George Wade, [Map of Scotland showing the Forts at Inverness, Fort Augustus, Fort William and Moidart and on which is pencilled the proposed military roads, also the names and numbers of men that could be raised by the various clans] c.1725-1745

Major John Caulfield is not such a famous name, but he took over the project as chief road builder and extended the road system out from its core in Perthshire and Inverness-shire, to Aberdeenshire, Argyll, Stirling, Moray, Ross, and Galloway. Work was interrupted by the 1745 Jacobite Rising, however it resumed in 1747 until his death in 1767. During this time he built 800 miles of road. 

Come 1745, and Jacobitism was once again threatening Hanoverian rule. Recent economic prosperity was not enough to persuade all to be content with the Hanoverian regime. Sympathy for the Stuarts remained, and recent war with France brought instability to the political climate. 

In August 1745 Charles Edward Stuart arrived at Glenfinnan to the welcome of clansmen loyal to the Stuart cause. A banner declaring ‘King James Eight..prosperity to Scotland and no Union’ was raised at Glenfinnan on Charles Edward Stuart’s arrival. The Jacobite army travelled across Scotland with Charles Edward at its head on the roads that Wade himself had built, while General Cope’s forces used a different route that took them out of the path of the Jacobite army. The Jacobite army marched into Edinburgh and set up a 6-week alternate court at Holyrood Palace, lending the cause a kind of youthful, royal glamour absent before. Weeks later the Battle of Prestonpans was an early victory for the Jacobites who then continued south to Derby. Wade who had been brought out of retirement, was unable to stop them. However a decision was made by Lord George Murray that it would be safer to return to Scotland over the winter. The Jacobites met the Hanovarian forces again at Falkirk, another victory for the Stuart cause. The army once again used the roads from Crieff where a war council was held, to travel to Inverness. It was at Drumossie Moor where the battle of Culloden was fought in April 1746, a disaster for the Jacobites. Despite the government victory, it was a blow that the Jacobites had used the very system meant to pacify them. 

Battle of Culloden, woodcut painting, 1746 – Wikimedia

The roads left an impression on the Scottish landscape. There is much to see from Crieff following the road to Dalnacardoch. Wade’s bridge still stands over the River Almond in the Sma’ Glen. Nearby to this, a stone reputed to be a cist cover for where the great Bard Ossian or Oisein was buried was moved by builders to make way for the new road. Follow the route to Aberfeldy where Wade built his crowning architectural achievement in the Tay Bridge. This was designed by Scottish neoclassical architect William Adam who also created many of Scotland’s most elegant buildings. 

Further afield there are a number of incredible sites associated with the re-fortification of Scotland. Ruthven Barracks, Fort George, and Fort Augustus can be visited.  If you would like to read more on General Wade in Perthshire, Lindsay Farquharson's General Wade's Legacy: The 18th Century Military Road System in Perthshire (2011) offers a wealth of information, alongside a very helpful map. You can also find more information online at ScotWays and WalkHighlands.

Tay Bridge in Aberfeldy, designed by William Adam on the instruction of General Wade – Canmore

If you're in Crieff (especially during the Drovers' Tryst), why not take part in one of the glorious walks or find out more about Crieff's fascinating heritage? If you do, make sure to send us some pictures and share your stories.