The Great Kilt

A great kilt, feileadh mòr, breacan an fhéilidh… instantly recognisable, but how much do you know about the origins and purpose of the garment?

Your Great Kilt Outfit

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Great Kilt Outfit (Feileadh Mor)

£525.00

Available in 749 tartans

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Celtic Cross Plaid Brooch

£46.00

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Ghillie / Jacobite Shirt

£53.00

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Ghillie Boots

£123.00

Highland soldier wearing an early form of the great kilt, with the plaid wrapped over the musket lock to shield it from rain and wind | 1744

Contrary to popular belief, the great kilt was not worn by the brave-hearted William Wallace. Wallace lived during the late 13th century, several hundred years before the great kilt came into use. In fact, it wasn’t until the 16th century that the tartan garment began to resemble the great kilt. It differs from the kind of kilt that we wear today in that it was a long piece of fabric, hand pleated as opposite to a fitted & stitched garment.  However, the way that the wearing of the garment evolved between the 16th and 18th centuries was the precursor to the modern kilt design.

The great kilts of the 18th century can also be described as a belted plaid. This meant that the garment’s structure was really held together by a belt of some kind. The piece of fabric being quite long meant that it needed to be folded in and around itself, as well as over the body, in order to be more useful than cumbersome. 

Belted plaids in the Scottish Highlands | 1730s

For a better fit, the fabric would have been hand-pleated, wrapped over the shoulder, and fastened with the belt each time it was worn. Though this may seem like a lot of work for modern day kilt wearers, the great kilt, or feileadh mór in Gaelic, was a versatile garment ideally suited to the Highland lifestyle. Its length and woollen material made it a blanket, cloak, and rain cover all in one, perfect for sleeping rough or travelling across the often harsh Scottish landscape. 

After the Jacobite uprisings, the British government introduced the Dress Act of 1746, banning the wearing of Highland dress, including the great kilt, as part of a wider effort to dismantle clan culture. Tartan, once everyday wear, became a symbol of resistance and was punishable by law. 

An officer of the Black Watch | 1743

Interestingly, Highland regiments in the British Army were still permitted to wear kilts, creating a curious double standard. When the ban was finally lifted in 1782, Highland dress made a slow but passionate return, eventually evolving thanks in part to romantic figures like Sir Walter Scott into a proud symbol of Scottish identity.

By the late 1600s to early 1700s, Highlanders began to favour a more practical version known as the small kilt feileadh beag, which retained the lower half of the great kilt but removed the upper drape. This version was worn from the waist down, It was lighter, easier to wear, and better suited to physical work, and was sometimes called the "walking kilt." 

One popular (and still debated) story credits Thomas Rawlinson, an English Quaker and ironmaster, with streamlining the design further. In the 1720s, Rawlinson was operating furnaces near Inverness and reportedly found the great kilt too unwieldy for his Highland workers. So, he suggested (or possibly invented) a more practical version: a skirted garment with sewn-in pleats. 

Rawlinson wasn’t alone in this effort. His business partner, Ian MacDonnell, chief of the MacDonnells of Glengarry, adopted the new style too, and with clan chiefs leading the way, it didn’t take long for the small kilt to catch on. 

Not everyone agrees with this version of history. Many Scots take issue with the idea that an Englishman "invented" the kilt. Some point to earlier portraits like that of Kenneth Sutherland, 3rd Lord Duffus, as evidence that shorter kilts were already in use. Others argue that tartan itself has been worn since the Middle Ages, long before Rawlinson came on the scene.

As with most aspects of history, the truth is probably somewhere in the middle. What’s clear is that by the 19th century, the kilt had taken on its modern form: pleated, tailored, and worn with pride. No longer just a work garment, it had become a symbol of Highland identity. 

George IV in Highland Dress, by David Wilkie | 1829

The transformation to a sewn kilt got a royal boost in 1822, when King George IV made his grand (and somewhat theatrical) visit to Edinburgh, dressed head to toe in tartan. Orchestrated by Sir Walter Scott, the spectacle turned Highland dress from everyday wear into a fully-blown national costume, kicking off a tartan craze that swept through Scotland and beyond.

While most people today opt for the modern tailored kilt, especially for more formal events like Burns Suppers the great kilt hasn’t disappeared entirely. Though less common, it’s still proudly worn by those who want to embrace a more traditional, historical look. You’re most likely to spot it at Highland Games, worn by reenactors or history enthusiasts, and it’s gained renewed visibility thanks to shows like Outlander. So, if you’re drawn to the drama and heritage of the great kilt, you’re in good company, it’s a style that continues to hold its own.

The Great Kilt

While modern kilts offer more structure and ease, the fly plaid keeps tradition alive. Still popular in formal settings, it’s a subtle but meaningful nod to the style and spirit of the great kilt.

Wearing a great kilt might look intimidating at first, but with a bit of floor space and a few simple steps, you'll find it’s easier than you think. Whether you’re going fully traditional or just looking to embrace your inner Highlander for a day, here’s how to do it.

◦ Your tartan fabric (we can help you find the perfect size, fabric weight and tartan pattern)

◦ A belt (a kilt or leather belt at least 1½ inches wide is ideal)

◦ A brooch and or kilt pin

◦ A friend to help (optional, but highly recommended)

◦ Plenty of floor space, a smooth surface is best

1. Grab your belt and tartan fabric. Lay out your tartan fabric on the floor, wrong side up, with the length running left to right.

2. You're going to divide your fabric into three sections: the left side will be un-pleated, the middle will be pleated, and the far right side will also remain un-pleated. The two un-pleated sides should each be measured to equal half of your waist size, and will end up acting as the inside and outside aprons of the kilt.

3. Pleat the middle section by pulling around 1 to 2 inches of fabric toward you at a time. Use the tartan’s stripes as a visual guide if helpful. Adjust as needed to ensure the pleated section matches your waist measurement. Having a second person to pleat with you will help make this step a little easier. 

4. Once pleated, carefully place your belt underneath the tartan, wrong side up, lining it up at waist height.

1. Lie down in the middle of your fabric with the belt at your waist, making sure to you've got the correct length. The back of your knees is a good quick guide.

2. Fold the right side over your body, then fold the left side over the top.

3. Fasten the belt snugly at your waist to hold everything in place.

4. Stand up and adjust the pleats and aprons as needed, this is also where a second person comes in handy!

The fabric above your waist is what gives the great kilt its iconic flair. You’ve got options:

◦ Drape it over one shoulder and secure it with a brooch or pin.

◦ Wrap it around like a cloak to keep warm.

◦ Tuck it in if you're active and want it out of the way.

◦ Pull it over your head for a hooded look on a rainy day.

Feeling adventurous? Watch our how-to video to see the process in action. And if you’re missing any of the items listed above, we’re happy to help you find everything you need to get started in style.

If reading about the great kilt has sparked your curiosity, why not see one brought to life in person? This August, we’re delighted to offer free daily Great Kilt Demonstrations in both our Edinburgh and Crieff stores.

These hands-on sessions are a brilliant way to experience the history and heritage of the féileadh mòr up close. You’ll learn:

◦ The origins and cultural importance of the great kilt

◦ What you need to create one for yourself

◦ Exactly how to pleat, fold, and wear it like a true Highlander

Our friendly team will guide you through every step and happily answer any questions about tartan, Highland dress, or clan history. After the demonstration, feel free to:

◦ Explore your clan or family tartan

◦ Browse our tartan swatches and fabric options

◦ Get measured for your very own custom garment

Demonstrations take place daily at 11:00am, 7 days a week throughout August.

While registration is encouraged, walk-ins are always welcome and we’ll do our best to accommodate everyone.

Edinburgh Registration > 

Crieff Registration > 

There’s no doubt that the great kilt is a powerful emblem of Highland history and tradition, but getting to grips with pleating and wrapping it can take a little practice! If you’re giving it a go yourself, we’d love to see how you get on, send us a photo or video of your attempt.

 

And if you’d like a bit of guidance, we’re here to help. Get in touch for advice, or book an appointment with our team and we’ll walk you through the process and help you find the right tartan, size, and style for you.